Bacon, Lettuce, and Tobacco

How we learned to light up for breakfast, lunch, and dinner…

Introduction

“,,,Is it not both great vanitie and uncleannesse, that at the table, a place of respect; of cleanlinesse, of modestie, men should not be ashamed, to sit tossing of Tobacco pipes and puffing of the smoke of Tobacco one to another, making the filthie smoke and stinke thereof, to exhale athwart the dishes, and infect the aire, when very often, men that abhorre it are at their repast?”

A CounterBlaste to Tobacco by King James I of England, 1604

King James I was ahead of his time. Four centuries later diners would still be having their meals spoiled by the the acrid stench of cigarette smoke — until the passage of clean indoor air laws beginning in the 1970s that led to smoke-free restaurants, airlines, and other public places. Pipes were the main form of smoking until the 19th century, when cigars became the most popular tobacco product — and the after-dinner cigar a cherished ritual. At the turn of the 20th century, cigarettes comprised less than 2% of tobacco product sales, but they would be popularized in World War I through free distribution by health charities to the boys in the trenches. On the home front, where meat and wheat were in short supply due to the needs of the military, The American Tobacco Company created a patriotic advertising campaign to encourage consumption of other fresh and delicious foods – like poached eggs on toast– likening them to the pleasures of a “toasted” Lucky Strike cigarette. Every major tobacco company would craft advertising campaigns that associated cigarette smoking with food, from the inclusion of cigarettes in soldiers’ K-rations in World War II to images of provocatively dressed “cigarette girls” in glamorous nightclubs. In the 1930s the RJ Reynolds Tobacco Company came up with the claim that smoking its Camel cigarettes aided digestion. The brand’s advertising campaign featured elegantly dressed men and women of high society dining and smoking in America’s finest restaurants. The P. Lorillard Tobacco Company likened gourmet foods to Old Gold cigarettes, a theme the company would resurrect for its Kent cigarette brand in the 1950s and 1980s. In the late-1950s The American Tobacco Company hired noted Disney artist Mary Blair to design a series of Pall Mall cigarette ads that associated the brand with fresh fruit, lobster, shrimp, and other delicacies. In the 1970s Philip Morris made smoking synonymous with eating and flirting. The cigarette maker also published cookbooks under the Benson & Hedges cigarettes name. Liggett & Myers Tobacco Company’s cookbooks included advertisements and discount coupons for L & M cigarettes.

The culmination of the intermingling of cigarettes and food came in the late-1970s to the late-1980s with the acquisition of major food companies by Philip Morris (Seven-Up, Miller Brewing, General Foods, Kraft Foods) and R.J. Reynolds (Nabisco Foods). In this way, the cigarette companies could burnish their nicotine-stained image and remain among the leading advertisers on TV (even though cigarette ads had been banned from the
airwaves since 1971) and in newspapers and magazines, thus inhibiting news stories in these media about the growing death toll from smoking. The companies’ political influence would also thwart the rise of non-smoker’s rights organizations seeking smokefree public places.

And cigarette manufacturers would make inroads into supermarkets through the shared channels of distribution of cigarettes and food products. By1990 Fortune Magazine reported that Philip Morris was topped only by pharmaceutical giant Merck as the most admired company by business executives. The successful marriage of cigarettes and food suggested that the makers of Marlboro and Camel had indeed gotten their just desserts.

Alan Blum, MD,
Director, The Center for the Study of Tobacco and Society

“HOW do you know it’s Thanksgiving?
‘Your Nose Knows’
By the appetizing fragrance of Turkey that fills the house. How appealing! What a perfect promise of the feast to come! The pure fragrance of a fie tobacco, likewise, is the perfect promise of a perfect smoke – ‘Your Nose Knows’
Such a promise you have in Tuxedo, The Perfect Tobacco”

Advertisement by The American Tobacco Company for Tuxedo pipe tobacco
The Saturday Evening Post
November 24, 1917

“Use more EGGS save meat”

Magazine advertisement by The American Tobacco Company for Lucky Strike cigarettes
1918

“Use more eggs to save meat – that’s what Mr. Hoover asks you to do.

“And you’re glad to do it. You know there isn’t a better breakfast than two poached eggs on toast – seasoned exactly right. Of course, the cooking gives the flavor. There isn’t much interest in a raw egg.

“The cooking’ does it for Lucky Strike cigarette – gives a delicious flavor. It’s toasted.

“Save the tin-foil from Lucky Strike Cigarettes and give it to the Red Cross.”

“Use plenty of BAKED APPLES”

Magazine advertisement by The American Tobacco Company for Lucky Strike cigarettes
1918

“Use plenty of baked apples. Cooked fruits are recommended by the Food Administration.

“How baking does bring out the delicate flavor of a baked apple — it’s improved 100 per cent over the raw apple.

“We use the same idea to improve the flavor of tobacco — offer it to you toasted instead of raw. Try Lucky Strike Cigarette — it’s toasted.

“More vegetables LESS MEAT”

Advertisement by The American Tobacco Company for Lucky Strike cigarettes
Collier’s, The National Weekly
November 9, 1918

“EAT more vegetables – less meat. You’ll feel better, and help the Government, besides.

“Here are two you can’t beat – new string beans perfectly cooked in butter, and new creamed onions. You don’t need meat.

“How the cooking brings out their flavor! Cooking helps everything. Just try Lucky Strike Cigarette – it’s toasted!”

“Potatoes are OK
The Food Administration says so. Use lots of them, they want you to, especially.
And does anything taste better? Think of a big mealy baked potato — with a lump of butter, pepper, salt and paprika.
And what cooking does for raw potatoes it does for ‘raw’ tobacco — gives flavor. Burley tobacco — toasted — has made Lucky Strike cigarette famous. It’s toasted.”

Advertisement by The American Tobacco Company for Lucky Strike cigarettes
Scientific American
August 3, 1918

“Use OYSTERS instead of MEAT”

“USE oysters instead of meat. The Food Administration says so. And broiled oysters! In their shells; savory, juicy — a strip of bacon on each. What a delicious taste! Let’s go!

“You’ll find that cooking does as much for the taste of tobacco. Try Lucky Strike Cigarette — it’s toasted”)

Advertisement by The American Tobacco Company for Lucky Strike cigarettes
LIFE Magazine
1918

“More FISH Less Meat
“EAT more fish and less meat — as a natter of regular habit. This helps the Food Administration.
“Think what a variety you have! And think what a delicious, savory taste there is to a well-baked baby pike, for instance.
“Cooking performs miracles for raw foods — and for raw tobacco. ‘Cooked’ tobacco is better. Try Lucky Strike Cigarette — it’s toasted.”

Advertisement by The American Tobacco Company for Lucky Strike cigarettes
Scientific American
October 19, 1918

(Curator’s note: Established in 1917, the United States Food Administration controlled the production, distribution and conservation of food in the U.S. during World War I, with the aim of preventing monopolies and hoarding. Future President of the United States Herbert Hoover served as Administrator. The agency launched patriotic campaigns such as “meatless Mondays” and “wheatless Wednesdays” to help ration scarce commodities. [Source: Wikipedia])

Other advertisements in this series include “CHEESE OK’D BY FOOD ADMINISTRATION” (“Indeed it is: all dairy products are urged in place of other foods. Cheese can be served in many ways as the ;principal dish of a meal: the familiar rarebit is only one of them. in all of them the flavor is heightened and enhanced by cooking. The same can be applied to tobacco — flavor is much improve by cooking. Try Lucky Strike Cigarette. It’s toasted!”); “Eat More BAKED Beans” (“You’ll see them recommended on every food conservation list. Don’t they look appetizing in their shiny little dish, brown and flaky on top, just about bursting open with flavor? They’re different from raw white beans. ‘Cooked’ tobacco is very different from ‘raw’ tobacco — about ten times more appetizing. Try Lucky Strike Cigarette — It’s toasted!”); “Eat Lots of New GREEN CORN” (“EAT lots of new green corn. Go to it now–seasonable vegetables are the things to eat to help food conservation. You don’t need urging; green corn is one of the best things we have, boiled or roasted, with plenty of butter, pepper and salt. Think how much flavor cooking puts into corn. And it’s the same with tobacco–cooking gives it flavor. Try Lucky Strike Cigarette—it’s toasted.”); and “Substitute OATMEAL for white flour” (“Substitute oatmeal for white flour! As the Scotchman says, it’s a grand food. You’ll find nothing better for breakfast than fresh, crisp oatmeal muffins; they’re great! Cooking makes a civilized food out of raw oatmeal. And cooking makes a delicious smoke out of raw tobacco. Try Lucky Strike Cigarette – it’s toasted!”).

“Is Tobacco a Food?
By Irvin S. Cobb”

“ask Granddad
He knows too!
The best smokes he ever had were ‘Sweet Caps’”

Advertisement by The American Tobacco Company for Sweet Caporal cigarettes
The American Magazine
January 1926

(Curator’s note:Irvin S. Cobb [1876-1944] was a popular writer for The Saturday Evening Post, the nation’s highest paid newspaper reporter at The New York World, and the author of over 60 books and 300 short stories.)

“WHEN the Pure Food Law went into effect [in 1906] the makers of Sweet Caporal Cigarettes did not have to change either their methods of manufacture or the contents of their packages, nor yet their ways of marketing their wares…Its proprietors had a regard for factory cleanliness, for honest labelling, for purity of goods, for truthful advertising and sanitary handling long before a Federal statute requiring these things was enacted.

“Back in the days when soda crackers were sold in bulk from open barrels; when the exposed salt, the sticky brown sugar, the naked salt maceral and the unclothed dried apple caught germs and mingled their perfumes in the family grocery, Sweet Caporal Cigarettes were put up for retail trade in dust-proof, damp-proof, mould-proof containers, were protected with foil and under smooth snug paper wrappers, were enclosed fortravel in tight cartons so that no impurities could get at them while in transit or after they had reached the dealer’s shelves. No human hands fingered them until the purchaser broke the seal.

“You couldn’t exactly call tobacco a food – although a great many persons would rather quit eating regularly than quit smoking regularly – but just the same the makers of Sweet Caporal cigarettes obeyed the ethics of the Pure Food Law before Congress legislated the Pure Food Law.

“They obey it today, and take added pains not required by the Federal government or by the States or the Cities. All their factories are model factories. I never saw a cleaner, brighter, or more up-to-date workshop than one where Sweet Caporals are made which I visited before I began writing these advertisements. It was as sanitary as a modern hospital; it was as slick and shiny as a Dutch Kitchen, and it radiated a perfume that was incense to a smoker’s nose.”

“Planked Fresh Shad
IN SEASON ONLY IN SPRING
But this FRESH Party Cigarette EVERY DAY!”

Magazine advertisement by the P. Lorillard Tobacco Company for Old Gold cigarettes
1938

“Fresh Oysters only in the ‘R’ months
But a FRESH Party Cigarette EVERY DAY!
So many table delicacies are hard to get fresh at just the time when you want them.
Not so a fresh cigarette!
You can have that special palate pleasure for your guests any time of the year –
If you smoke Old Golds”

Advertisement by the P. Lorillard Tobacco Company for Old Gold cigarettes
Woman’s Home Companion
March 1938

“Caviar only for Company
FRESH CAVIAR COSTS $15 A POUND!
So most of us don’t have it everyday, though caviar does make grand canapés with a dash of lemon
juice, or a bit of minced onion. But a fresh Old Gold costs no more than most cigarettes.”

Advertisement by the P. Lorillard Tobacco Company for Old Gold cigarettes
Good Housekeeping
April 1938

“FOR THANKSGIVING –
Baked Alaska
FRESH FROM THE OVEN
And these ALWAYS FRESH
‘Party’ Cigarettes”

Magazine advertisement by the P. Lorillard Tobacco Company for Old Gold cigarettes
1938

“Fresh Frogs’ Legs
only for a special treat
But a FRESH Party Cigarette ANY DAY!”

Magazine advertisement by the P. Lorillard Tobacco Company for Old Gold cigarettes
1938

“BOTH ‘SPECIAL’
Crêpes Suzettes
FRESH from the Chef’s chafing dish
And this FRESH ‘Party’ Cigarette”

Magazine advertisement by the P. Lorillard Tobacco Company for Old Gold cigarettes
1938

“Fresh
as a new spring crocus!
Apple ‘Honey’ helps keep Old Golds fresh”

Advertisement by the P. Lorillard Tobacco Company for Old Gold cigarettes
LIFE Magazine
1943

“Another NEW* has been Added!

Apple ‘Honey’ Now Protects Old Gold Freshness

LOWEST IN NICOTINE
LOWEST IN THROAT-IRRITATING TARS AND RESINS
As shown by unbiased, independent, unsolicited tests of 7 leading brands – made for Reader’s Digest.

*New moisture-protecting agent developed by U.S. Department of Agriculture. We call it Apple ‘Honey.’”

Advertisement by the P. Lorillard Tobacco Company for Old Gold cigarettes
LIFE Magazine
June 28, 1943

“APPLE ‘HONEY’ is our name for an amazing new moistening agent which helps hold in the freshness of Old Gold cigarettes.

“It has been developed by evaporating the pure, golden juice of fresh, luscious apples to a bland, honey-like syrup. Lightly sprayed on tobacco, this extract penetrates every particle to help hold in the moisture after the cigarette is made.

“We call this latest Old Gold triumph Apple “Honey.’ We’re using Apple ‘Honey’ now to protect Old Gold freshness. All in all, we believe it is superior to glycerine, which is now needed at the battlefield.

“Apple ‘Honey’ is not a flavoring…does not change the taste of Old Golds. You enjoy the same delicious flavor – the same fine tobaccos, including Latakia. Apple ‘Honey’ simply helps keep Old Golds fresh on their way to you.”

“Greet your grapefruit with a grin!
For Morning-After FRESHNESS Smoke Ever-Fresh Old Golds”

Advertisement by the P. Lorillard Tobacco Company for Old Gold cigarettes
LOOK Magazine
July 19, 1936

“WHETHER YOU ARE CATCHING A QUICK BITE OR DINING IN STATE —
for Digestion’s Sake – Smoke Camels!”

Advertisement by the R.J. Reynolds Company for Camels cigarettes
TIME Magazine
1936

“CHAMPION BOWLER, Johnny Murphy says: ‘Smoking Camels at meals and after works out swell in my case.'”

“—for Digestion’s Sake – Smoke Camels
Camels stimulate digestion in as pleasant, natural way…increase alkalinity”

Advertisement by the R.J. Reynolds Company for Camels cigarettes
TIME Magazine
1936

“VICTOR HUGO RESTAURANT in Beverly Hills. As the guests pause between courses to enjoy Camels, Hugo himself nods approval. ‘Our guests have made Camels the favorite here,’ he says.”

“The fast pace of Modern Living puts an extra strain on Digestion
Natural Digestive Action Notably Increased by Smoking Camels
For Digestion’s sake smoke Camels“

Advertisement by the R.J. Reynolds Tobacco Company for Camel cigarettes
Pictorial Review
May 1936

Among the many distinguished women who prefer Camel’s costlier tobaccos:
MRS. ERNEST DU PONT, JR. of Wilmington, Delaware
MRS. NICHOLAS BIDDLE, Philadelphia
MISS MARY BYRD, Richmond
MRS. POWELL CABOT, Boston
MRS. THOMAS M. CARNEGIE, JR., New York
MRS. GARDNER COOLIDGE, II, Boston
MRS. BYRD WARWICK DAVENPORT, Richmond
MRS. HENRY FIELD, Chicago
MRS. CHISWELL DABNEY LANGHORNE, Virginia
MRS. JAMES RUSSELLL LOWELL, New York
MRS. JASPER MORGAN, New York
MRS. POTTER D’ORSAY PALMER, Chicago
MRS. LANGDON POST, New York
MRS. BROOKFIELD VAN RENSSELAER, New York

“Taste PALL MALL…SO
GOOD!
GOOD!
GOOD!”

Magazine advertisement by The American Tobacco Company for Pall Mall cigarettes
March 25, 1961